Sunday, 18 May 2008

Review: Roti


ROTI

Relish it!

AT CHEF TONY SINGH'S ROTI, A BREADTH OF ELABORATE ATTENTION GOES INTO EVERY DINER GREETED, EVERY LOVINGLY CREATED DRINK AND THE FOOD THAT IS LAVISHLY PREPARED.

My friend and I begin the night in the bar as I'd heard its praises sung before. The bartender, Danny, has concocted a menu of intricate cocktails – each with exotic infusions such as coriander, jasmine and saffron (all £6.50). We decide on a mango lassi and a passionfruit mule to start but know we'll be back later on!

After drinks, we're seated in an oddly music-less dining room that is later filled with a Saturday night buzz. A medley of toppings ranging from mild to spicy await us with crunchy crumbs of naan bread. Soon we're sharing a tandoori jhinga starter (£8) of king prawns that look too pretty to eat but we manage. We also devour the aloo nazakt (£6), a crispy potato filled with cashews, raisins and coriander.

My main is a mound of lemon rice with sea bass (£17) lying enticingly over it in a Goan fish curry with bits of fried okra that are sublime. Meanwhile, my companion brags of how her lamb rogan josh (£17) falls tenderly from the bone. Her accompanying masala lentil is a bit cool but still good and we wish we could take a bag of the delicious deep-fried lotus stems home with us.

For dessert, the kesari kulfi (£6), a delicious cone of mango and cardamom parfait, arrives with a sesame donut rung around the top for a picturesque presentation along with chocolate chilli truffles (£3.50 served with coffee) that leave a bizarre but nice burn in the back of the throat.

We finish in the bar with martinis (zaffroni and chai) while wondering why we're the only ones here. Not only are the drinks (and the gents making them) lovely but there's also a brilliant tiffin menu for anyone wanting to indulge in homemade, tapas-like bar fare.

Roti (all of it) is an indulgence not to be missed.

Also in Bite Magazine May 2008 issue

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