Monday, 22 June 2009
RESTAURANT REVIEW: Rivage, Easter Road, Edinburgh
Cheap but top-notch
SLIGHTLY SOUTH OF LEITH, EASTER ROAD IS TAKING THE MEAL EXPERIENCE A FEW STEPS ABOVE THE PUBS AND TAKEAWAYS WITH THE ADDITION OF RIVAGE. OWNER AND CHEF RYAD MEEAJANE DOES INDIAN FOOD WITH SO MUCH INVENTION AND STYLE THAT IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE THE FOOD IS ALSO ENTIRELY ECONOMICAL. VERY GOOD NEWS THESE DAYS!
Arriving first is a plate of complimentary fried Anda bread with a spiced, pickled assortment of carrots with mustard seeds, a tomato mango chutney and sweet onions; it's a delicious surprise and the kind of special something that really makes a dining experience stand out.
My starter is the scallop varuval (£4.95), the murgh tikka tiranga (£3.95) for my friend. My scallops are lightly glazed and seared to a perfect medium then finished with a cool lime and coriander sauce. It's a must for scallop lovers. My friend's chicken tikka is tender and beautifully presented over a trio of sauces so good , it is difficult to not ask for more.
Green chicken curry from Goa ($7.95) is my main course, a dish that is healthily chunky, not greasy, with pureed coriander, mint and chillies. It's recommended to accompany this with one of the flavoured bowls of rice although we find that the gucchi pulao mushroom rice (£3.50) is stellar all on its own as well. My friend is overjoyed with the jhinga 65 (£9.95); tiger prawns are char-grilled with care just after they've 'matured' in creamed hung yogurt marinade, saffron, caraway seeds and coriander. Its accompanying sauces of roasted red pepper and mint yogurt cool the palate sensibly. Our favourite part? The hollow yellow pepper that sits upright on the plate with a candle inside. Again, it's a simple but memorable touch.
Portions are just so that it's perfectly fine to finish with mango coffee sorbet (£2.95) plus the gulab jamun (£3.50), the latter being soft cheese dumplings served warm with real vanila bean ice cream.
Service is attentive, the music is entertaining (Bollywood does Pretty Woman, anyone?) but the physical menu could do with an upgrade that reflects the incredible quality of the menu items it lists.
Rivage also does delivery after 6pm.
126-130 Easter Road
0131 661 6888
7 days 12-2pm (lunch); 5.30-11pm (dinner)
Also published in July 2009 issue of Bite Magazine